![]() This may result in the engine stalling while operating. If the idle air control valve (IAC) fails completely, it may leave the vehicle, without a source of air. Engine StallingĪnother more serious symptom of an issue with the (IAC) is engine stalling. Since less air will be going into the engine during its idle state, the car will react by shaking profusely. A rough idle will result in, intense vibrations forming, whenever your vehicle is stopped with the engine running. But, if the valve goes bad for any reason, the idling will go from smooth to rough. Rough Engine IdleĪ normal healthy idle air control valve (IAC), will provide smooth idling in your vehicle. Therefore, having the computer scanned for trouble codes, is highly recommended. Check Engine Lightīut, the Check Engine Light, can also come on for a variety of other issues. As a result, of the engine control module detecting an issue with the idle air control valve circuit or signal. Check Engine Light IlluminatedĪnother symptom of a potential issue with the idle air control valve (IAC) is, an illuminated Check Engine Light. And, in some cases, a surging idle speed, that repeatedly climbs and falls. This may result in an unusually high or low idle speed. So, if the valve fails or has any issues, it can cause the idle speed to be thrown off. The (IAC) is programmed, to regulate and maintain the engine idle speed, at a constant rate. So, one of the most common symptoms associated with a problematic idle air control valve (IAC) is, irregular idle speed. Many can alert the driver of a potential issue: Irregular Idle Speed Usually, a bad or failing idle air control valve (IAC), will produce a few failure symptoms. And, in some cases, may even render it undrivable. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.So, when the idle air control valve (IAC) fails, it can cause all sorts of issues. HINT: At the time of installation, please refer to the following items. Remove the 4 screws, IAC valve and gasket. Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic Service and Repair Procedures Removal and Installation Take a look through them to make sure everything was done.ġ999 Lexus Truck RX 300 AWD V6-3.0L (1MZ-FE) Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacing the IAC. When you replaced it, was everything where it mounts clean and carbon free? Also, have you tried cleaning the throttle body? When you had the throttle body off to replace the IAC, are you certain it was resealed properly and there are no vacuum leaks? Car still drives well! Thanks for your reply and I will recheck.Īs mentioned, I worry when aftermarket parts are used for specific types of repairs. I will also give you a short video on start up. It appears valve is working fine but I will recheck that again. PCV was replaced when I did a tune up on vehicle.I did remove it and shook it. I will forward pictures regarding this and location. I do recall two vacuum hoses going into a small plastic box. There is also one more thing that I will check. That would indicate something was wrong with the valve. I did recheck a week ago for freedom of movement of IACV and it was flawless. I was going to remove electromagnetic Plug aka black piece, and see if it starts. I was going to try something I read on your site. The Rpms do not drop when releasing the throttle when in park or neutral. The car dives but it does not rev low like it use to. The IACV moved freely and no leaks once I used an original Lexus gasket. EBay had new ones for about thirty dollars. I removed the black piece and the magnet broke off IACV. I am not sure I did a great job and the hesitation started again on a relegation. I did use carburetor cleaner and it was better than new. I removed the hesitation on acceleration. I can hear the idle control valve open because of the high wine but settles down a little. I do not think the battery has nothing to do with the high idle. I tried the idle relearn procedure and reset the ECU. Car drives with no hesitation but I do noticed that I get that additional surge one stopping due to Increase in Rpm's. Rpm's drop but very slowly when I depress accelerator. I used a brand new gasket when placing throttle body back. ![]() I must also note that I leaned throttle body well when it was removed. I removed the electromagnetic motor which is the black piece. I used carburetor cleaner, propane, and water. I checked for vacuum leak at least 7 times. It Rpm's would eventually get down to 1100 but would have a tendency to go higher after car was driven. I started the vehicle and the Rpm's were very high at 2100 Rpm's. The price from from the original was very different. The part looked just like the one I removed. I replaced it with a brand new part from eBay. I replaced IACV valve on my vehicle listed above. ![]()
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